Blog

Fusible jacket interlining, the traditional tailors "Marmite"

Fusible jacket interlining, the traditional tailors "Marmite"

In the 1960’s the concept of bonding the front jacket canvas to the outer cloth was launched. The principle was that the interlining (canvas) had 1000’s of micro dots that would melt under heat onto the outer cloth. This was developed by a company called Staflex International.

The objective was to deskill some of the manufacturing operation and produce a better cleaner looking jacket.

In those early days the micro dots could bond under a hot steam press, this led to problems with delamination, puckering etc.

Many traditional tailors referred to this process not as fusing but rather “gluing” which customers thought that the tailor actually glued the interlining to the cloth.

Today the process of fusing is done with an electric fusing press, the woven interlining is laid on the cloth and the conveyor belt moves the jacket front through the press for exactly the right time and temperature. 

Our jackets still use a traditional high-quality chest piece and padded lapels.  However, the advantage of a front fused jacket is that it travels better, comfortable to wear, less prone to creasing and we can offer very lightweight fabrics tailored to perfection.

A bit like Marmite some tailors either love it or hate it